{"@context":{"@vocab":"https://cir.nii.ac.jp/schema/1.0/","rdfs":"http://www.w3.org/2000/01/rdf-schema#","dc":"http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/","dcterms":"http://purl.org/dc/terms/","foaf":"http://xmlns.com/foaf/0.1/","prism":"http://prismstandard.org/namespaces/basic/2.0/","cinii":"http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ns/1.0/","datacite":"https://schema.datacite.org/meta/kernel-4/","ndl":"http://ndl.go.jp/dcndl/terms/","jpcoar":"https://github.com/JPCOAR/schema/blob/master/2.0/"},"@id":"https://cir.nii.ac.jp/crid/1363670320195008768.json","@type":"Article","productIdentifier":[{"identifier":{"@type":"DOI","@value":"10.1175/jpo2922.1"}},{"identifier":{"@type":"URI","@value":"http://journals.ametsoc.org/jpo/article-pdf/36/7/1471/4484303/jpo2922_1.pdf"}}],"dc:title":[{"@value":"On Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves"}],"description":[{"type":"abstract","notation":[{"@value":"<jats:title>Abstract</jats:title><jats:p>Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.</jats:p>"}]}],"creator":[{"@id":"https://cir.nii.ac.jp/crid/1383670320195008769","@type":"Researcher","foaf:name":[{"@value":"Nobuhito Mori"}],"jpcoar:affiliationName":[{"@value":"Graduate School of Engineering, Osaka City University, Osaka, Japan"}]},{"@id":"https://cir.nii.ac.jp/crid/1383670320195008768","@type":"Researcher","foaf:name":[{"@value":"Peter A. E. M. Janssen"}],"jpcoar:affiliationName":[{"@value":"European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, Shinfield Park, Reading, United Kingdom"}]}],"publication":{"publicationIdentifier":[{"@type":"EISSN","@value":"15200485"},{"@type":"PISSN","@value":"00223670"}],"prism:publicationName":[{"@value":"Journal of Physical Oceanography"}],"dc:publisher":[{"@value":"American Meteorological Society"}],"prism:publicationDate":"2006-07-01","prism:volume":"36","prism:number":"7","prism:startingPage":"1471","prism:endingPage":"1483"},"reviewed":"false","dcterms:accessRights":"http://purl.org/coar/access_right/c_abf2","url":[{"@id":"http://journals.ametsoc.org/jpo/article-pdf/36/7/1471/4484303/jpo2922_1.pdf"}],"createdAt":"2006-08-23","modifiedAt":"2025-01-10","relatedProduct":[{"@id":"https://cir.nii.ac.jp/crid/1050859293243407744","@type":"Article","resourceType":"学術雑誌論文(journal article)","relationType":["isReferencedBy"],"jpcoar:relatedTitle":[{"@language":"en","@value":"Freak wave in a two-dimensional directional wavefield with bottom topography change. 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