上肢下垂形態と長袖の構成

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  • The Form of Dropped Arms in Relation To Construction of Long Sleeves
  • ジョウシ カスイ ケイタイ ト ナガソデ ノ コウセイ
  • 〓

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In pursuing the objective on construction of long sleeves, variations of sleeve cap points for fitness to dropped arms form, from the point of motion convenience and external appearance were attempted, through sensory tests. The results in light of long sleeve constructions were as follows : 1. Importance is evident for appearance. For dressy-wear, fitness is shown where sleeve cap point is identical to shoulder point, or approximately 1.0-1.5cm variance toward the back from the shoulder point. 2. Stress is evident for motion fitness and function. For sporty-wear and working clothes, slant form corresponds to the mean value. Fitness is shown where sleeve cap point is identical to shoulder point with front slant of 5°-6° variance. By assessment from the mean value, front slant of 7°-12° variance shows fitness of sleeve cap point with back slant of 1.5cm variance from shoulder point. Moreover, front slant of 4° to back slant of 3° shows fitness of sleeve cap point with front slant of 1.0 cm variance from shoulder point. The above findings indicate the need for sleeve cap point variations according to clothing needs for various purposes although the sleeve design itself may not differ.

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