Development of Wave Train Analysis Package : WAVETRAP

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  • Development of Wave Train Analysis Pack

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説明

Ocean waves are composed of a number of waves with different wave heights, periods, frequencies, and directions. This sea state is mainly analyzed by two approaches. One is by spectral analysis, and the other by individual wave analysis. In spectral analysis, it is assumed that the sea is composed of a variety of sinu-soidal waves with different amplitudes, frequencies, and directions. Therefore, each wave component can be linearly superimposed to generate the original sea state. On the other hand, individual wave analysis distinguishes and identifies each wave, then calculates the wave height and period of each wave passing through a fixed wave station. Therefore, individual wave analysis is more convenient to study the break-ing wave mechanism and related cross-shore sediment transport in the surf zone. This report describes only analysis procedures and algorithms that can be used to determine individual-wave properties of a train of waves with respect to statistics. Thus, the develop-ment of a spectral analysis package is left for future study. The analysis concerns properties such as wave height, wave period, water surface elevation, extreme wave properties, joint distribution of height and pe-riod. In addition, this program is simple to extend to the analysis of a multi-burst wave record, but it is expected that when using the computer program, engi-neers will take responsibility themselves for the list-ings.

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