An Investigation on Traces of Wave Run-Up and Lashed-up Stones by Sea Waves on Reaf Coasts

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  • 沿岸域開発における波浪痕跡値の重要性の提起
  • エンガンイキ カイハツ ニ オケル ハロウ コンセキチ ノ ジュウヨウセイ ノ

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In this paper, the authors propose the importance of estimation of mean sea water level and wave run-up from wave traces for the development of an area along the coast, and incidentally, thouch on the process which hit upon this new study. Main conclusions of this paper are summarized as follows; 1. From the field observation, the set-up of mean sea level in the observed sea coasts by typhoon were ensured. 2. It is clarified that the observed traces of wave run-up make us to estimate the wave forces acting on the sea shore. 3. The forces which lashed up the stones on the sea coast seem to be caused by the bore-like surf beat. 4. The importance of accumulation of such data mentioned in this paper is pointed out from coastal engineering view point.

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