Wave runup during extreme storm conditions

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  • Nadia Senechal
    EPOC, UMR 5805, University Bordeaux, OASU, CNRS Talence France
  • Giovanni Coco
    National Institute of Water and Atmosphere Hamilton New Zealand
  • Karin R. Bryan
    Department of Earth and Ocean Sciences University of Waikato Hamilton New Zealand
  • Rob A. Holman
    College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences Oregon State University Corvallis Oregon USA

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<jats:p>Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05–0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low‐sloping surf zone while the swash zone was associated with moderately reflective conditions (Iribarren parameters up to 0.87). Our data support previous observations on highly dissipative beaches showing that runup elevation (estimated from the variance of the energy spectrum) can be scaled using offshore wave height alone. The data is consistent with the hypothesis of runup saturation at low frequencies (down to 0.035 Hz) and a hyperbolic‐tangent fit provides the best statistical predictor of runup elevations.</jats:p>

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