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- Fernanda Hoefel
- Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) Joint Program in Oceanography, WHOI, Mail Stop 09, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA.
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- Steve Elgar
- WHOI, Mail Stop 11, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA.,
書誌事項
- 公開日
- 2003-03-21
- DOI
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- 10.1126/science.1081448
- 公開者
- American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS)
この論文をさがす
説明
<jats:p>Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches but are not well understood. Here, a model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulated both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period.</jats:p>
収録刊行物
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- Science
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Science 299 (5614), 1885-1887, 2003-03-21
American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS)