Observation of the Fabric Behaviors in Blind-Stitch Machine Sewing by a High-Speed Camera and the Changes in the Amount of Needle Penetration by Sewing Directions

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  • 高速度カメラによるすくい縫いミシンの縫製下における生地挙動の観察と縫製方向によるすくい量の変化
  • コウソクド カメラ ニ ヨル スクイ ヌイ ミシン ノ ホウセイ カ ニ オケル キジ キョドウ ノ カンサツ ト ホウセイ ホウコウ ニ ヨル スクイ リョウ ノ ヘンカ

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<p>The authors observed the fabric behaviors during blind-stitch machine sewing to clarify the factors that the sewing directions influence in the amount of needle penetration and its penetration configuration, by using a high-speed camera directly. The authors also examined the quantitative relationship between the amount of needle penetration and sewing direction in terms of the fabric characteristics and properties.</p><p>It was observed from the camera images that the fabric was pushed up by the ridge forming disc and was given shear deformation by the motion of feed dog on the case of bias sewing. The shear deformation was considered to cause the tight structure of the fabric.</p><p>In blind-stitch sewing, the restraint of fabric yarns between the feed dog and presser foot is direct in the case of sewing along the warp and weft. As for bias sewing, however, the restraint of fabric yarns between the feed dog and presser foot will be indirect. From the difference in sewing directions mentioned above, in bias sewing the fabric became more shear-deformable with the feeding action and the time spend during the needle penetration became longer than the case of sewing along the warp or weft from the camera images. The authors considered that these phenomena based on the camera images caused the increase in the amount of penetration, the decrease in its standard deviation and the diversity of penetration configuration due to loose restriction of the fabric. On the other hand, in sewing along the warp or weft, the needle penetrated shockingly into the fabric due to the tight restriction, and the probability that the needle split into the fabric yarn, was considered to become smaller. This is the reason in the case of sewing along the warp and weft why the amount of needle penetration becomes smaller and its standard deviation, lager, and the configuration of needle penetration is restricted.</p><p>The amount of needle penetration in various sewing directions was equated by using the variable such as TM<tt>・</tt>EMT(θ)/EMT(0) including fabric thickness TM and the elongation property EMT.</p>

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