Formulation Strategies for Skincare Cosmetics with a High Moisturizing Effect

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  • 高保湿スキンケア製剤の処方設計の考え方
  • 特集総説 スキンケア製品開発における実践技術(2)高保湿スキンケア製剤の処方設計の考え方
  • トクシュウ ソウセツ スキンケア セイヒン カイハツ ニ オケル ジッセン ギジュツ(2)コウホシツスキンケア セイザイ ノ ショホウ セッケイ ノ カンガエカタ

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Lack of water in the stratum corneum results in dry and scaly skin. Skin hydration is an important function of cosmetic skincare products. It is important for skin hydration to hold water to the stratum corneum and to prevent the evaporation of water from the skin surface. The physico-chemical properties of a skin care base are closely related to these mechanisms, and a suitable formulation design leads to an excellent skin moisturizing effect. Humectants in those formulations play the most important role in the skin moisturizing effect. The skin-moisturizing effect of a humectant depends on the amount of adsorbed humectant in the stratum corneum. In order to enhance the penetration into the stratum corneum, the technique of blending with an aqueous phase an ingredient which raises distribution to the stratum corneum of a humectant is effective. In addition, α-gel emulsion can express a moisturizing effect with a small amount applied. A film of a hydrophobic ingredient such as hydrocarbon oil can prevent moisture evaporation from skin, and can hold moisture on the skin surface. Although the occlusion effect increases with an increase of the molecular weight of oil, it is important that the application film on the skin is homogeneous. As a new formulation technology having the occlusion effect and the penetration of a moisturizer, nanoemulsion of α-gel emulsion is introduced. In addition to these conventional techniques, new knowledge on restoration of the intercellular lipid structure in the stratum corneum is also discussed.

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