Transition of the Concept of Skin Care Products

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Other Title
  • スキンケア化粧品のコンセプトの変化
  • 特集総説 スキンケア製品開発における実践技術(1)スキンケア化粧品のコンセプトの変化 : 角層を保湿することの重要性
  • トクシュウ ソウセツ スキンケア セイヒン カイハツ ニ オケル ジッセン ギジュツ(1)スキンケア ケショウヒン ノ コンセプト ノ ヘンカ : カクソウ オ ホシメスル コト ノ ジュウヨウセイ
  • —角層を保湿することの重要性—
  • —The Importance of Moisturizing the Stratum Corneum—

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The basic function of skin care products is skin moisturization to maintain an adequate water content in the stratum corneum (SC). It is well known that skin dryness causes not only rough skin, but also initiates skin aging. As mechanisms retaining water in the SC, the roles of natural moisturizing factors (NMF), intercellular lipids and tight junctions have been revealed. Although it was thought that the SC plays a role in retaining water, its role was not elucidated until the mid-twentieth century. Recently, the progress of dermatological science has extensively contributed to developing concepts of skin care products. So far, humectants and various oils in place of NMF and sebum are generally formulated into skin care products to maintain water in the SC. However, recent dermatological knowledge has contributed to the development of products containing ceramides and NMF, or of products focusing on tight junctions existing in the granular layer and maturation of the SC. Furthermore, a recent study demonstrated the importance of the drying process of wet skin in which drying slowly after application of a moisturizer leads to improving the barrier function of the SC. In this review article, the author summarizes the transition of skin care concepts related to the progress of cosmeto-dermatology.

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