Unique Self-Assembling Properties of Linear-Type Long Chain Mono Alkyl Phosphate and Its Application in Cosmetic Formulations

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  • 直鎖型モノアルキルリン酸エステルの特異な会合挙動と化粧品への応用
  • チョクサガタ モノアルキルリンサン エステル ノ トクイ ナ カイゴウ キョドウ ト ケショウヒン エ ノ オウヨウ

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Abstract

Alkyl phosphates are well known and have been commonly used for a long time in the cosmetic and detergent fields as a mild surfactant. However, many of the general industrial products of alkyl phosphate in the market are the mixtures of mono-, di- and tri-esters which do not have the specific features of mono-esters. If we use the alkyl phosphate which has highly purified mono-ester, it is expected to form a new beautiful self-assembling structure. In this study, by increasing the mono alkyl content, we tried to discover such a new functional behavior and structure using highly purified hexadecyl alkyl phosphate. Among the compounds studied, hexadecyl phosphate neutralized with L-arginine (R16MP-Arg) in an aqueous system showed characteristic solution properties and association behavior below the Krafft temperature. Spontaneous swelling of R16MP-Arg was observed below the Krafft temperature, and a gel structures composed of R16MP-Arg and water was formed without heating or shaking. This gel was identified as a thermodynamically stable “α-gel” based on the results of DSC and SAXS measurements. In this study, we revealed that highly purified mono hexadecyl phosphate with L-arginine organized a very stable α-gel structure. Cosmetics in which this α-gel is used as the base give a refreshing and smoothing sensation when applied to the skin. The unique property of R16MP-Arg is that it affords a stable gel structure even when mixed with fatty alcohol.

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