Changing Senses : The Industrialization of Pig Husbandry and Pork Trading in Okinawa

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Other Title
  • 変わりゆく感覚 : 沖縄における養豚の専業化と豚肉市場での売買を通じて
  • カワリユク カンカク : オキナワ ニ オケル ヨウトン ノ センギョウカ ト ブタニク シジョウ デ ノ バイバイ オ ツウジテ

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Abstract

<p>This paper examines how people use their senses to grasp the qualities of pork in the marketplaces of Okinawa, Japan. I explore marketplace studies and the "anthropology of the senses," asserting the importance of the bodily senses in researching information at such marketplaces. In the 1980's, the anthropology of the senses revealed that human senses and perception are not only determined by physiological mechanisms, but are also formed socio-culturally. However, it only emphasizes the importance of the senses theoretically, and lacks an ethnographical description of the senses. Especially, there are fewer ethnographic details of the olfactory than those for such senses as sight and hearing. I present several ethnographical cases of the senses, including smell, and overcome the criticism in the context of the marketplace. Another criticism of the anthropology of the senses is the ahistorical approach, which tends to presume the sensory homogeneity of members in a society. In contrast, this paper focuses on the heterogeneity and differences among members of the same society. In this article, I focus on the sensory experiences to reveal the way to use the senses, in the case of the Okinawan people, commodifying and trading pig intestines. At first, I show that sellers process the sensory attributes, by dressing and cleaning the large intestine, then peeling abura (a film of smelly fat) off the large intestine and boiling it with baking powder. That process makes the intestine whiter and less smelly. The smell and color of the large intestine has thus been processed in the course of its commodification. In the setting of buying and selling, we discover that buyers from different generations are likely to act on the basis of different senses. For instance, they differ in terms of their attention to sensory attributes. On the one hand, members of the younger generation find it difficult to distinguish the large intestine from the small one. The sellers then educate their customers, helping them to the differences of colors. They teach about the contrasts between the colors, showing younger buyers that the large intestine is white and the small one is black. The buyers might be able to differentiate the colors of the two intestines according to the instruction they have received. But some buyers cannot learn how to distinguish white intestines from black ones. Meanwhile, elderly buyers are not as interested in color as they are in smell. They are inclined to make much of the smell. They always sniff at the large intestine to judge the qualities of tripe when buying it. Also, they work much with the other senses to figure out the commodity value. For them, the olfactory attribute is the most important when buying the large intestine, as well as textual and visual information that is linked to the smell. In that sense, their experience involves multiple senses. In a comparison of elderly buyers with younger ones, they differ in how they use their senses, living in a different sensory world. While the elders act with an olfactory-centered approach, the younger ones use their visual sense. It shows that there is a generational difference in senses between the two. The usage of the younger buyer's sense is characterized by three points: (1) an interception of the other senses except vision, (2) a simplification of the visual sense to colors, and (3) passivity. To explain the first one, sellers teach the colors of intestines to the younger buyers in order to distinguish large intestines from small ones. As the intestines have already been packed, the buyers cannot smell or touch them, but can see them. In those circumstances, buyers come to pay attention to visual attributes only. Next, the buyers try to identify the two kinds by their color. At the moment, complicated visual information is replaced by a simple contrast of colors. Finally, the buyers tend to be</p><p>(View PDF for the rest of the abstract.)</p>

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