薄手布の風合いを評価するための力学特性測定に関する研究

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  • Measurements of Mechanical Properties of Thin Dress Fabrics for Hand Evaluation
  • ウスデ ヌノ ノ フウアイ オ ヒョウカスル タメ ノ リキガク トクセイ ソク

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金沢大学人間社会研究域学校教育系

目的 薄手布の風合いに関与する力学的性質をKESF方式により測定する場合の, 布地の性格をより明確に判別するための適確な測定条件を見出す.成果 1) 薄手布の力学的特性の評価には, 従来のKESF方式標準測定条件に比べて小変形領域での測定が重要であり, 特に圧縮特性及び引張り特性において最大荷重レベルを低くした高感度測定条件が必要である.2) 上記高感度測定条件により, 例えば絹フィラメント織物の繊細な力学的特性における特徴を判別することができる.In order to distinguish the fabric hand by their mechanical properties, the suitable mechanical condition such as deformation range to be measured is important. The KESF system is now becoming one of popular systems to determine the fabric mechanical properties relating to the fabric hand. However, the standard measuring conditions of the KESF have been developed, up to this time, for the medium thick fabrics such as men's suitings. In the case of thinner fabrics classified as women's thin-dress fabrics, the standard conditions have been not necessarily the optimum condition. In this report, the “high sensitivity” conditions for both tensile and compression testings are proposed for the measurements of thin dress fabrics by the KESF system. In the tensile property measurement of the high sensitivity condition, the range of the tensile load is 1/10 of the stnadard condition and the sensitivity of force and strain detection is magnified by 10 times. In compression testing, the pressure range is also 1/5 of the standard. These small deformation measurements provide more clear distinction in fabric mechanical properties among thin dress fabrics. The difference is demonstrated in the mechanical properties between silk and silk-like polyester fabrics by using the measurements of high sensitivity conditions.

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