Influence of the Sewing Direction on the Amount of Needle Penetration in Blind Stitch Machine Sewing

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  • すくい縫いミシン縫製における縫製方向とすくい量
  • スクイ ヌイ ミシン ホウセイ ニ オケル ホウセイ ホウコウ ト スクイ リョウ

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<p>We examined the influence of the sewing direction on the amount of needle penetration in blind stitch machine sewing. The results obtained were as follows:The amount of needle penetration increased in the bias sewing seam comparing with the warp and weft ones, although the increasing percentages were different by fabric characteristics.From the inspection of seam stitch using a microscope, we observed some needle penetration patterns in accordance with fabric characteristics. As for the sewing directions, the patterns obtained from bias sewing seams were the most diversified.It was shown that the fabric was greatly affected by both the motions of feed dog and ridge forming disc when the needle was penetrating. In the case of bias sewing, the motion of feed dog caused the shear deformation of the fabric and in turn the tight and packed structure of woven fabrics, while no shear deformation was occurred in the case of both the warp and weft sewing. We examined that the increase of the amount of needle penetration and the diversification of patterns of needle penetration in bias direction sewmg, were caused by the change in fabric shear deformation under the feeding force mentioned above.It was shown that the shear rigidity G and tensile property EMT along sewing direction relating with the fabric deformation were quite important factors in considering the influence of sewing direction on the amount of needle penetration.</p>

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