Hand of Wool Fabrics and Its Control

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  • 羊毛服地の風合いとその制御
  • ヨウモウ フクジ ノ フウアイ ト ソノ セイギョ

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Abstract

As well known, fabric hand has played a very important role in wool fabrics. The hand is composed ofmany factors, and changed by various conditions of fibers, yarns, weaving and finishing processes.<BR>Since the assessment of fabric hand is affected by the experience, taste and circumstances of inspectors, the determination has often been confused among engineers.And moreover, the production of wool fabrics with good hand has been difficult to control the hand of fabric at manufacturing stage, or to analyze the factors to which the high quality production is related.<BR>On the other hand, the KES (Kawabata's Evaluation System) has made the evaluation and standardization of hand possible. Therefore it has been able to assess the hand by common concept and quantitatively express the hand.<BR>A study has been made to investigate the relation between expression of hand feeling and expression of three primary hands of KES, the relation between KES values and many factors which influence the hand with respect to winter men's fabric.<BR>Fineness of merino wool, kind of wool, number of twist, yarn count, warp and weft density, finishing process are chosen as the factors which influence the hand.

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