Characteristics of Wave Slope and Limit of Breaking Wave in Directional Spectrum Waves

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  • 方向スペクトル波の波傾斜特性及び砕波限界
  • ホウコウ スペクトルハ ノ ナミ ケイシャ トクセイ オヨビ サイハ ゲンカイ

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Abstract

It is important to make a research on directional spectrum waves, because it can characterize the ocean waves. Recently, we manage to control the generation of the directional spectrum waves that has an arbitrary directional distribution in a longitudinal towing tank. By that way, we are able to study the characteristics of real ocean waves. Since it is difficult to measure directly the local wave slope with precision, there are not so much researches available in this matter. For that reason, this report deals with the characteristics of the local wave slope of the directional spectrum waves measured by the laser beams. Further, the relationship between the wave slope and wave height spectrums and the criteria of breaking waves are also investigated.

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