COMPARATIVE STUDY OF EQUATIONS FOR ANALYZING COASTAL WAVE TRANSFORMATION

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  • 波浪変形解析のための波動方程式の比較研究
  • ハロウ ヘンケイ カイセキ ノ タメ ノ ハドウ ホウテイシキ ノ ヒカク ケ

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Abstract

Theories for linear and regular waves are usually employed to analyze the wave transformation in the coastal zone, but irregularity and/or nonlinearity cannot be neglected in many situations. In the present paper, a new and general set of wave equations which is named nonlinear mild-slope wave equation is derived to take into account the dispersion and nonlinearity within an arbitrary accuracy. Then, the theoretical characteristics of the wave equations proposed so far are discussed by showing that they can be derived as special cases of the present equations. Sample results of numerical calculations of the various wave equations are given to show the effect of irregularity and nonlinearity, and comparisons of the numerical results with field data are also given. Finally, a future scope in the analysis of wave transformations is presented.

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