A STUDY FOR THE GENERATION MECHANIZM OF THE RIP CURRENT AT THE ENCLOSED OR SEMI-ENCLOSED BEACH BY THE GROIN

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  • 新潟東港周辺における突堤で囲まれたカスプ地形海岸での離岸流の生成機構について
  • ニイガタ ヒガシコウ シュウヘン ニ オケル トッテイ デ カコマレタ カスプ チケイ カイガン デ ノ リガンリュウ ノ セイセイ キコウ ニ ツイテ

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Abstract

 The rip current occurs at the wave breaking area near the beach, and the accident that is related to the rip current occurs every year in the world. Some generation mechanisms of the rip current are known. For example, the rip current occurs at the sand beach that has the cusp topography, and occurs near the structures such as the groins. In Niigata, there is not many large beach, and ordinary the beach is enclosed or semi-enclosed the groins those were built to protect from the coastal erosion.<br> This study tried to comprehend the generation mechanism of rhe rip current at the enclosed and the semi-enclosed beach by the groins. Firstly, this study did field survey and comprehended the large scale and velocity of rip current. In this method, the rip current was pigmented by the sea water colorant, and the pigmented current was observed by the velocity meter and recorded as the aerial photography by the UAV. Secondary, this study reproduced the rip current by the numerical simulation. The result was compared with the field observation data.

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