STANDARD SHAPE FOR SWELL DIRECTIONAL SPECTRUM
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- FUJIKI Takashi
- 港湾空港技術研究所 海洋情報・津波研究領域
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- KAWAGUCHI Koji
- 港湾空港技術研究所 海洋情報・津波研究領域
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- SAKURABA Satosi
- 国土交通省 東北地方整備局 釜石港湾事務所
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- HASHIMOTO Noriaki
- 九州大学大学院 工学研究院
Bibliographic Information
- Other Title
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- うねりの方向スペクトルの相似形に関する研究
- ウネリ ノ ホウコウ スペクトル ノ ソウジケイ ニ カンスル ケンキュウ
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Description
Although swell can be the dominant source for the coastal process, there is not enough research on directional wave spectrum of swell. We analyzed wave data recorded on the Pacific coast in Tohoku and Kanto region for a year to investigate such swell. We selected wave data under the moderate wave and meteorological condition for pure swell, and identified swell and wind sea with the criteria of inverse wave age. We confirmed the validity of our identification swell and wind sea with 3/2 power-low on characteristic wave height and period for wind sea. We showed the peculiar properties for swell directional spectrum which concentrated and isolated energy partition and shape of directional spectrum modified for swell. We concluded that the parameter for local wave fields such as wave steepness and inverse wave age is insufficient for populating the swell directional spectrum which is affected mainly by the remote source.
Journal
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- Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
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Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 73 (2), I_109-I_114, 2017
Japan Society of Civil Engineers
