Local Balance in the Air-Sea Boundary Processes

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  • TOBA Yoshiaki
    Geophysical Institute, Faculty of Science, Tohoku University

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Other Title
  • 海面境界過程における局所平衡
  • カイメン キョウカイ カテイ ニ オケル キョクショ ヘイコウ 1 フウハ ノ ハッタツ カテイ ニ ツイテ エイブン
  • I. On the Growth Process of Wind Waves
  • I. 風波の発達過程について

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Abstract

A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented uponthree basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionlessforms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basicconcepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of waveenergy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual datathat the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and thedissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10-2 and K=2.16×10-5, respectively), is applied universallyto wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed seain the open ocean.<BR>“The three -second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relationsas the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motionof wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepnessis inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion ofwind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasingwave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves.<BR>Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and asto the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean.

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