NUMERICAL INVESTIGATIONS OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE DEVELOPMENT ON A BARRED BEACH
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- MATSUBA Yoshinao
- 東京大学 工学系研究科社会基盤学専攻
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- SHIMOZONO Takenori
- 東京大学 工学系研究科社会基盤学専攻
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- TAJIMA Yoshimitsu
- 東京大学 工学系研究科社会基盤学専攻
Bibliographic Information
- Other Title
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- バー型海岸における長周期波発達過程の数値解析
- バーカタ カイガン ニ オケル チョウ シュウキハ ハッタツ カテイ ノ スウチ カイセキ
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Description
We constructed a 1-D Boussinesq model to reproduce previously observed infragravity waves developed on a barred beach on Hiratsuka Coast. We applied pressure gradient at sea surface for detection of wave-breaking and introduced numerical viscosity satisfying TVD condition to represent wave attenuation by wave-breaking. This model showed good agreements with both experiments and the observations. Modeled cross-shore distribution of wave spectra suggested development of long standing waves whose amplified frequency components had nodes/antinodes above the bar. We also confirmed gradual infragravity wave development which was inferred from the field observations.The model results suggested that 3rd order nonlinear interacton gives unignorable impacts on the development around the sand bar.
Journal
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- Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering)
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Journal of Japan Society of Civil Engineers, Ser. B2 (Coastal Engineering) 74 (2), I_19-I_24, 2018
Japan Society of Civil Engineers
