STUDY ON GRASP OF CURRENT CONDITION OF THE RIP CURRENT TO OCCUR IN SANDY BEACH

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  • 突堤が設置されたカスプ地形海岸で発生する離岸流の流況把握
  • トッテイ ガ セッチ サレタ カスプ チケイ カイガン デ ハッセイ スル リガンリュウ ノ リュウキョウ ハアク

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Abstract

 The beach in Niigata Prefecture, faces the Japan Sea, has not many large sand beach, furthermore many beaches are enclosed the groins that were built due to protect from the coastal erosions. In this area, some beach has the cusp topography and is enclosed by the groins. The rip current occurs at the wave breaking area near the beach, and the accident that is related to the rip current occurs every year in the world. Our group studied to comprehend the generation mechanism of the rip current, and we male many field survey and the numelical simulation. This time, we tried to make the new calculation method about the velocity of the rip current. In this case, only the wave conditions and the depth information are needed. Before make the new method, we made the some field survey. In this method, the rip current was pigmented by the sea water colorant, and the pigmented current was recorded as the aerial photography by UAV.

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