IMPROVEMENT OF FULLY-NONLINEAR AND STRONGLY-DISPERSIVE WAVE MODEL AND APPLICATION TO A WAVE FIELD OVER A BUMP

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  • 強非線形強分散波動方程式の改良とbumpを有する波動場への適用
  • キョウ ヒセンケイ キョウ ブンサン ハドウ ホウテイシキ ノ カイリョウ ト bump オ ユウスル ハドウジョウ エ ノ テキヨウ

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Abstract

 It was revealed that a solitary wave is highly reproduced by using Fully-nonlinerar and strongly Dispersive Surface wave equations (FDS equations) comparing with theoretical solutions. Furthermore, we improved the FDS equations by expanding velocity potential into a series of a power function of zμ instead of z. Dispersion relationship computed by the improved FDS equations agreed very well with the theoretical solution when we gave the number of expansion terms as 3 with μ=2. Also, we applied the improved FDS equations to a wave field over a bump. As a result, the improved FDS equations was found to reproduce time series of wave height and velocity of the laboratory experiments.

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