Analytical formulas representing the idealized growth of wind-waves, duration-limited and fetch-limited
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- 増田 章
- 九州大学応用力学研究所
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The SMB method is an historical wave-forecasting method, which is based on fetch-limited and duration-limited growth of wind-waves. However, wind-wave growth envisaged by the words fetch-limited and duration-limited has been ambiguous, and clear explanation seems to have been absent. A simplest conceptual model is proposed here for the idealized growth of wind-waves, where the model equation is based on several assumptions: (1) a well-established fetch relation for small to moderate fetches, (2) ubiquitous equilibrium governed by the 3/2-power law of Toba, (3) propagation of wind-waves as a whole at the group velocity of waves with the significant wave period, (4) presence of the upper bound of the significant wave period, and (5) tanh-type fetch dependence of wave energy. In particular, the fetch relation of (5) is a modified Wislon's formula I, where variables are normalized by a single scale of fectch and upper bounds of wind-waves. The model yields analytical formulas that clearly illustrate the growth of wind-waves, both fetch-limited and duration-limited. The result suggests that wave growth is better described by substantial duration t_<sd> than the conventional discrimination of duration-limited and fetch-limited; t_<sd> allows a unified description of wave-growth. Related problems are examined and discussed as well: fetch relations at large fetches, normalized and approximate formulas of fetch relations, momentum and energy input, and so on.
収録刊行物
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- 九州大学応用力学研究所所報
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九州大学応用力学研究所所報 140 1-12, 2011-03
九州大学応用力学研究所
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詳細情報 詳細情報について
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- CRID
- 1390572174717534464
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- NII論文ID
- 120005311760
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- NII書誌ID
- AA11459359
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- DOI
- 10.15017/27104
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- HANDLE
- 2324/27104
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- NDL書誌ID
- 11199601
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- ISSN
- 13455664
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- 本文言語コード
- en
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- データソース種別
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- JaLC
- IRDB
- NDL
- CiNii Articles
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- 抄録ライセンスフラグ
- 使用可