インドネシアにおける手織機の類型論的研究 :（1）型式と分布

This paper is the first part of a two-part typological study of the classification of Indonesian handlooms. This study aims to examine the basis and development of weaving culture in Indonesia, analyzing the various types of looms used by different Indonesian ethnic groups. In the second part, as the basic data for further comparison and analysis, the study presents (1) a basic classification of Indonesian handlooms, and (2) their fundamental structure and examples of each classified type with their distribution among the different ethnic groups. According to these data, examination will be focused added on their structure, function, and distribution. In this study, Indonesian handlooms are classified into eighteen types : two types with no heddle, six types with single loops-heddle, six types with double jointedloops- heddles, two types with single plate-heddle with holes and slots, and two types with a single set of tablets-heddle with holes. This classification is based on my previous paper, "Principles for a Basic Classification of Handlooms" [YOSHIMOTO 1987: 315-447], which showed the four primary loom elements in the basic structure of the shedding device, the arrangement of the shedding device, the warp-supporting system, and the warping system. In addition, the structure and arrangement of the warp supporting tools, the use of a reed and of a flying shuttle are related for further classification. The names of the eighteen types of classification are given below, where (a) is the basic classification code used in [YOSHIMOTO 1987], (b) is the figure number of the basic classification, and (c) is the figure number of geographical distribution of the ethnic groups that use each type. Looms with No Heddle Javanese type (a=A0oba-1 type, b=Fig. 1 c=Fig. 43) Minangkabau type (a=A0obd-2 type, b=Fig. 3, c=Fig. 44) Looms with Single Loops-Heddle Sobei type I (a=Blcca-1 type, b=Fig. 6, c=Fig. 45) Sobei type II (a=Blcca-2 type, b=Fig. 9, c=Fig. 46) Atoni type (a=Blcca-3 type, b =Fig. 11, c=Fig. 47) Gorontalo type (a=Blccb type, b=Fig. 14, c=Fig. 48) Balinese type I (a=Blccd-1 type, b=Fig. 17, c=Fig. 49) Balinese type II (a=Blccd-2 type, b=Fig. 19, c=Fig. 50) Looms with Double Jointed-Loops-Heddles Minangkabau type I (a =D12fbd-1 type, b=Fig. 23, c=Fig. 51) Minangkabau type II (a=D12fbd-2 type, b=Fig. 25, c=Fig. 52) Minangkabau type III (a=D12fbd-3 type, b=Fig. 28, c=Fig. 53) Javanese type I (a=D12fbd-4 type, b=Fig. 30, c=Fig. 54) Javanese type II (a=Dl2fbd-5 type, b=Fig. 32, c=Fig. 55) Javanese type III (a=D12fbd-6 type, b=Fig . 35, c=Fig. 56) Looms with Single Plate-Heddle with Holes and Slots Achehnese type (a=Elecd type, b=Fig. 37, c=Fig. 57) Minangkabau type (a=Elfbd type, b=Fig. 39, c=Fig. 58) Looms with Tablets-Heddle with Holes Sundanese type (a=Glfbd type, b=Fig. 41, c=Fig. 59) Toraja type (a=Glfcc type, b=Fig. 42, c=Fig. 60) These types of handlooms can be divided into two groups according to the width of cloth woven on the loom. The first group consists of looms for general use, on which cloth of varied width, normally ranging from about 30 cm to 60 cm, the most popular size of ,cloth in Indonesia, is woven. Sometimes wider or narrower clothes are also woven on this group of looms. To this group belong all types of looms with single loops-heddle, and the three Minangkabau types of loom with double jointedloops- heddles. The second group consists of looms specially designed for narrow cloth up to about 20 cm. The Javanese type and the Minangkabau type of loom with no heddle, the three Javanese types of loom with double jointed-loops-heddles, the two types of loom with single plate-heddle with holes and slots, and the two types of loom with a single set of tablets-heddle with holes belong to the second group. As to their distribution, looms of the first group are the most popular handlooms in Indonesia and have been used among almost all ethnic groups who know weaving techniques. Looms for narrow cloth are found only among