BOUNDARY TECHNIQUE FOR CALCULATION OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ON STEP TOPOGRAPHY IN SHALLOW WATER

  • HIRAYAMA Katsuya
    国立研究開発法人海上・港湾・航空技術研究所 港湾空港技術研究所海洋研究領域
  • HAMANO Yuuki
    国立研究開発法人海上・港湾・航空技術研究所 港湾空港技術研究所海洋研究領域

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  • 水深が急変する浅海地形上の波浪変形計算に用いる境界処理法の提案
  • スイシン ガ キュウヘン スル センカイ チケイ ジョウ ノ ハロウ ヘンケイ ケイサン ニ モチイル キョウカイ ショリホウ ノ テイアン

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Abstract

<p> On submerged breakwaters, fringing reefs and atolls which have large steps, it is difficult to conduct a stable calculation of wave transformation by using a Boussinesq model which is derived with a mild slope approximation. In this study, a “step boundary technique” is newly developed to give an appropriate flux to the boundary between calculation regions which are separated on a large step by compulsion.</p><p> While the improved model with this technique can calculate partial wave reflection and transmission on a step, the wave height distributions due to wave breaking and dispersion on a submerged breakwater, which were measured in a previous model experiment in a flume, are reproduced with good accuracy.</p>

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