Olive Bark Extract as a Potential Cosmetic Sunscreen Agent with Combined Photoprotective and Skin-Care Properties

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  • Kishimoto Norihito
    Central Institute of Olive and Health Sciences, Shodoshima Healthyland Co., Ltd.

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  • 紫外線防御化粧素材としてのオリーブ樹皮エキスの可能性
  • シガイセン ボウギョ ケショウ ソザイ ト シテ ノ オリーブ ジュヒ エキス ノ カノウセイ

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Abstract

<p>The application of sunscreens is very important to protect skin from premature aging and photodamage. The most common sunscreens on the market contain synthetic ultraviolet (UV) filters, which are known to have potential toxicity in humans. The development of natural sunscreen agents such as herbal/botanical extracts is of contemporary interest, because their safety would be widely accepted by consumers. In this study, extracts from olive fruit, leaves, branches and bark were tested for sunscreen activity, and olive bark extract (OBE) was found to show effective sunscreen and anti-skin-aging activity. The in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) values of four extracts obtained from olive ingredients were evaluated by UV spectrophotometry. Among the tested extracts, OBE showed the highest SPF value of 10.00. The SPF value varied in a concentration-dependent manner. The critical wavelength of OBE was greater than 370 nm, indicating broad protection against UVB and UVA, making it a so-called “broad spectrum” UV absorber. Accelerated stability and in vitro photoprotective efficacy assessment, including UV irradiation, heating, exposure to a wide pH range (from acidic to alkaline), and freeze-thaw cycles, revealed that the sunscreen activity of OBE was physicochemically stable. OBE increased cell survival in primary human keratinocytes after UVB irradiation. OBE was polyphenol-rich, presenting high antioxidant activity, which counters free radical species that are the main cause of numerous negative skin changes. OBE showed strong anti-skin-aging activity by inhibiting dermal enzymes such as collagenase and hyaluronidase, and promoting skin fibroblast proliferation. OBE inhibits α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells. Thus, OBE could play multiple roles in skincare, and could be incorporated not only into sunscreens, but also into daily care and skin lightening products. The combination of these protective and preventive characteristics recommends OBE as a cosmetic agent and a possible active ingredient of sunscreen formulations.</p>

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