The Innovative Development of the Jacquard Weaving Machine in Japan

DOI 機関リポジトリ (HANDLE) オープンアクセス

説明

Session IV : Textile Design in Global Context

The Jacquard machine is an innovative automatic weaving device traditionally controlled by punching cards. It was invented by Joseph Jacquard and first exhibited at the Paris Exposition in 1801. The machine quickly became popular, mainly around Lyon, France. In Japan, the first Jacquard loom was brought from Lyon to Nishijin by Tsuneshichi Sakura and others in 1873. Since then, the Jacquard loom for Kimono has evolved in its unique way. Before the introduction of the Jacquard loom, there was already a difference between the European-style draw-loom and the Japanese sorabiki-bata. Therefore, the Jacquard system was adopted carefully in Japan and developed independently. To compare machines and textile designs, we will review patents and utility models related to Jacquard looms, many of which are from the Meiji era (1868 - 1912), to clarify how the European-style Jacquard looms were adapted to fit the Japanese style. The structure, mechanism, and design methods of the punch card of the Japanese Jacquard differ significantly from the European-style Jacquard looms that are currently widely used in Japan and abroad. In recent years, the computerization of Jacquard looms has progressed, and the punching cards of Japanese and European-style Jacquard looms have been converted into computer data. This allows for an easy comparison of the machine structures and design methods between the two. By comparing the Japanese and European-style Jacquard looms, we would like to clarify the reasons why the previous generation of engineers further developed the Japanese Jacquard loom and lead it to the development of new fabrics that utilize the strengths of both Japanese, and European-style Jacquard looms.

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詳細情報 詳細情報について

  • CRID
    1390858906233094528
  • DOI
    10.18910/91141
  • ISSN
    21897166
  • HANDLE
    11094/91141
  • 本文言語コード
    en
  • 資料種別
    journal article
  • データソース種別
    • JaLC
    • IRDB
    • KAKEN

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