伝上杉謙信所用小袖十二領―伝上杉謙信・上杉景勝所用服飾類調査報告　二―

In this paper the author studies nine kosode (small sleeve-banded kimono) said to have been used by UESUGI Kenshin and three kosode type examples of the ten dōbuku (coat worn over kosode) also said to have been used by UESUGI Kenshin (shown as (8), (9), (10) in Table 1, theFirst Report; Vol. 216, the Bijutsu Kenkyu). Kosode is an old type of kimono and is a typical Japanese costume. Its origin dates back to the Muromachi-Momoyama Period (sixteenth century) but few existing examples from those days are known, and especially is the case for those of daily use. Therefore, for the study of early kosode, we have used nuihaku (robe with embroidery and gold-leaf imprint)of noh drama because it is considered to be almost the same. But the recovery in 1955 of the costumes of the Uesugi Family which include the twelve kosode now in question, has provided us with important materials for their study. Those kosode are very valuable in the historical study of costume and of textile art, since they, like the other costumes handed down by the Uesugi Family, are well preserved in their most original form and represent sound traditions and rare quarity in textiles. The author gives an outline explanation in the second chapter, details of each kosode in the third chapter, and her conclusion in the fourth chapter. The below listed are the twelve kosode with the names and numbers given by the writer for convenience : (1) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, interchanging purple and white at the waist. Pl. III-a, fig. 1,2,3. (2) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, interchanging dark brown and light brown at the (vertical) center. Pl. III-b, fig. 4,5. (3) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of brown ground. fig. 6, 7. (4) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 8, 9. (5) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 10. (6) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrowsmedallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 11. (7) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 12, 13. (8) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 14. (9) Silk kosode with bamboos-and-sparrows medallion design in twill damask weave, of white ground. fig. 15, 16. (10) Peacock blue pongee kosode with scarlet silk lining. Pl. IV-a, fig. 17. (11) Scarlet nerinuki plain weave kosode with light-green-yellow lining. fig. 18. (12) Golden-yellow nerinuki plain weave kosode with hand-painting. Pl. IV-b, V, fig. 19, 20, 21. (1) horizontally tripartite in purple and white, the middle zone white. Cloth is twill damask weave silk. The woven bamboos-andsparrows medallion designs are the coat of arms of the Uesugi Family. (2) kosode type dōbuku of twill damask silk weave whose half side is dark brown and the other half is light brown. It has woven bamboosand-sparrows medallion designs. (3) brown twill damask weave silk kosode with woven bamboos-and-Sparrows medallion designs. (4)-(9) white twill damask weave silk with the same kind of designs. (10) kosode of blue pongee with lining of scarlet nerinuki plain weave peculiar to the Muromachi and Momoyama Periods. (11) scarlet nerinuki weave kosode with lining of light-green-yellow nerinuki. (12) golden-yellow nerinuki weave kosode with hand-painted designs.