書誌事項
- タイトル別名
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- A Quantitative Prediction for Shore Break Height on Coral Beaches with a Fringing Reef, Okinawa Island
- オキナワトウ ニ オケル サンゴショウカイヒン ノ テイセンサイハハ ダカ ニ カンスル スイテイシキ
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抄録
Field measurements were carried out on Yomitan coast with a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (H_b), the reef width(W), the wave height (H') and water depth(h) at the reef edge. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, H_b/H’, which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing W, and to decrease with decreasing h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological features of a fringing reef. Using the results of the present study data, an equation connecting H_b and H', h, and W, is derived from the regression analysis as follows: H_b ＝ 111.7 (h/W) H'.
収録刊行物
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- 沖縄地理
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沖縄地理 (15), 1-10, 2015-06
沖縄地理学会
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詳細情報 詳細情報について
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- CRID
- 1050574201782647040
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- NII論文ID
- 120006311771
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- NII書誌ID
- AN10157731
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- ISSN
- 09166084
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- HANDLE
- 20.500.12000/0002017629
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- NDL書誌ID
- 026646202
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- 本文言語コード
- ja
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- 資料種別
- journal article
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- データソース種別
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- IRDB
- NDL
- CiNii Articles
- KAKEN