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A Quantitative Prediction for Shore Break Height on Coral Beaches with a Fringing Reef, Okinawa Island

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  • 沖縄島におけるサンゴ礁海浜の汀線砕波波高に関する推定式
  • オキナワトウ ニ オケル サンゴショウカイヒン ノ テイセンサイハハ ダカ ニ カンスル スイテイシキ

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Abstract

Field measurements were carried out on Yomitan coast with a fringing reef in Okinawa Island, Japan to investigate the relationship between the shore break height (H_b), the reef width(W), the wave height (H') and water depth(h) at the reef edge. The ratio of the shore break height to the wave height at the reef edge, H_b/H', which denotes the degree of the reduction of wave height on a reef, was found to decrease with increasing W, and to decrease with decreasing h. This result indicates that the reduction of wave height on a reef is greatly controlled by morphological features of a fringing reef. Using the results of the present study data, an equation connecting H_b and H', h, and W, is derived from the regression analysis as follows: H_b = 111.7 (h/W) H'.

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