江戸期の料理本におけるみりんについて　―第4報　「蕎麦つゆ」,「鰻蒲焼たれ」とみりん―

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  • On Mirin in Cookbooks Published in Edo Era －Part 4. Mirin as a Seasoning in “Soba Noodle Sauce” and “Broiled Eel Sauce”－

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Mirin is used as a seasoning to blend with soy sauce and sugar for soba noodle sauce and broiled eel sauce. The soba and broiled eel restaurants had been popular in the middle and latter term of Edo era, but it is still unknown whether mirin was used as a seasoning of the sauce in the same periods. The author et al. tried to make it out in cookbooks published in Edo era. We found 119 recipes using mirin, however, we could not find any descriptions for using mirin in the seasonings of sauce in the fifty reprinting books named “Honkoku Edojidai Ryouribon Shuusei”. They usually used miso, soy sauce and sake as a seasoning in soba noodle sauce and broiled eel sauce. The oldest description of using mirin for a seasoning of broiled eel with soy sauce was found on the “Ryouri Anbai Shuu” published in 1668. On the other hand, a record of mirin and soy sauce for soba noodle sauce was found on the manuscript document which was written in 1803 at the old soba restaurant named “Koboriya” in Sawara City, Chiba Prefecture. On “Morisada Mankou” which was described on the manners and the customs of common people in the latter term of Edo era (1837-1867), mirin was found for a seasoning for broiled eel sauce especially in Edo region.

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