On Kurtosis and Occurrence Probability of Freak Waves

DOI PDF 被引用文献30件 オープンアクセス
  • Nobuhito Mori
    Graduate School of Engineering, Osaka City University, Osaka, Japan
  • Peter A. E. M. Janssen
    European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts, Shinfield Park, Reading, United Kingdom

書誌事項

公開日
2006-07-01
DOI
  • 10.1175/jpo2922.1
公開者
American Meteorological Society

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<jats:title>Abstract</jats:title><jats:p>Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory, the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrowbanded wave theory. For a fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50%–300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.</jats:p>

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