戦後における衣服縫製業の変遷 : 標準作業と中国移転を念頭に

1 はじめに : 衣服(本稿では洋服のこと)の製造卸企業と下請縫製企業は対の関係にあった。製造卸企業が衣服の企画と販売を担当し、下請縫製企業は文字通り縫製を担当してきた。現在でもこうした関係は見られるが、変化もしてきた。1つは製造卸企業が自家工場を建設してきたこと、もう1つは生産の受委託関係が国際的になっていることであり、後者の場合、受託企業の方が委託企業よりも企業規模が大きくなっていることがしばしばである。……

Changes in the sewing industry consisted of changes in skills, changes in mechanical equipment and production systems, changes in the size of companies, and changes in the locations of companies and factories inside and outside Japan. The era was divided into the period of pre-modernization, the period of export expansion (from the latter half of the 1950s to the early 1960s), the period of shortages of younger workers (the 1960s), the period of competition with increasing imports from developing countries (the 1970s and the 1980s), the period of growth in direct imports due to overseas business expansion (1990s), and the period of expectations for a domestic revival (the 2000s and the 2010s). During the period of pre-modernization and the period of export expansion, no major changes occurred even though there were certain technology transfers from the U.S. However, a major change did take place during the period of shortages of younger workers. Scientific management and industrial engineering (IE) were adopted in the production system while wholesalers established their own factories. Production locations also shifted from big cities to their surrounding areas and to more distant districts. During the period of competition with increasing imports from developing countries, the sewing industry was required to provide high added value, meet fashion needs, and handle a variety of products in small quantities within a short period of time. During the period of growth in direct imports due to overseas business expansion and an increase in production outsourcing, a decline in unit prices amid the Heisei depression, as well as the ongoing increase in imports, triggered production transfers to China. Production was either outsourced to overseas manufacturers or handled inhouse at overseas factories. Meanwhile, the domestic sewing industry continued toshrink. During the period of expectations for a domestic revival, considerations were made from the viewpoint of industrial cluster, the viewpoint of urban lifestyle, the viewpoint of the global environment, and the viewpoint of industrial high-tech materials, to revitalize "Made in Japan" products.